By, Stephen Pate

Several motorcycle manufacturers' marketing departments are now selling the image of high reliability as part of their core Brand Identity. In some respects, this tactic used by the manufacturers has actually worked to the disadvantage of many riders. As I detailed in 'Part One' of this article, many people's mentalities have been altered over recent years regarding the care of their bikes. Some of them don’t clean and care for their bikes as some sort of 'statement' about who or what they are as a motorcyclist. Others simply believe that modern motorcycles are like modern cars and require little maintenance or cleaning. This is not the case with any vehicle, regardless of the number of wheels it has. Modern bikes do require less maintenance than bikes made 20 or 30 years ago, but they still need a lot more maintenance than a car.

The increased reliability of modern motorcycles also means that there are a whole bunch of people out there who haven't a clue how to work on their bikes or what really needs to be done to ensure or enhance their reliability and safety. Many of those people shouldn't really be criticized for that though. Newer bikes can be complicated enough that only a dealer or a professional mechanic should be doing any major service to the bike. This does not mean that folks can’t do the simple, routine things to keep their eyes on the finer details of their motorcycles. It's actually an important and relevant part of being an active motorcyclist, as opposed to just being a hobbyist or treating motorcycles as some sort of lifestyle fashion accessory. If you've made motorcycles a major part of your life, caring for them can also consume a major part of your life. No one really likes to do the work when they need to… but doing it when you want to and making it part of your routine maintenance can actually be a pleasurable activity. A little garage time never hurt anyone. Except that time a bike fell on me while I was cleaning it… but that's a whole 'nuther story.

Routine cleaning and maintenance is a subject that has been covered extensively. Also, we could easily separate all of it into multiple categories and subcategories for modern or vintage machines, road going or off road bikes, cruisers or sportbikes, etc. However, for the purposes of this article I want to concentrate on some basic essentials of cleaning and safety checking, (rather than restoration or other aspects), as well as some tips, tricks and resources for maintaining any road going motorcycle regardless of vintage or type.

To Wash or Not To Wash?

First off, there's the question of why we should even bother to clean the damn things in the first place? They're just gonna get dirty when you ride them, right? In 'Part One', I shared my thoughts on the matter saying, "…cleaning your bike should be part of your routine maintenance". Blah, blah, blah! That's all well and true, but sometimes I just think it's good to have a clean bike. Although, outside the logic of safety concerns, I just couldn’t seem to put my finger on why that is! I know I like riding a clean bike more… I enjoy the experience more… they even seem to run better… or maybe I was just nuts. I decided to ask some people for their opinions as well as some tips or tricks for cleaning and maintaining their machines. My friend Mark Mattei who is a serious collector of all sorts of vehicles, seldom cleans anything. He replied very quickly and simply with the tip that, "Theoretically, urine is sterile". Clearly, he was not 'down' with this subject matter. Others were a bit more eloquent on the subject.

"I am always surprised at how much better my bike seems to run when it is clean. I know that this doesn't make any sense at all… that an inanimate object should seem to run better when it has been cleaned. I believe the answer to this phenomenon is that we actually see and feel things differently because we somehow identify with the object so much. We want it to be thankful and happier because it has been given attention by us. It is our way of getting positive feedback from something we love, which can't possible love us in return. As warped as this sounds, I believe it is a healthy thing. Especially when we are talking about a motorcycle. I need to trust my bike. I need to believe it is somewhat safer because of my care for it. Cleaning the bike helps me to remember having looked at every nut and bolt. Seeing that everything is 'right'. It is a good thing when we take notice of the condition of the parts that we trust our lives to". - Tony Keisman

"I have found many unexpected hazards while cleaning my bikes. A Brown Recluse spider's nest under my seat, a loose front axle on the sidecar (the rag spun the nut), a fractured fork leg, various oil leaks and a bunch of other things. If you're serious about riding, you will take care of your machine. Cleaning your bike is required MAINTENANCE. It not about posing, it's about safety. It's about proper care. If you think using detailer on your bright work before a ride to the HOG meeting is what I mean, you are mistaken! It's about keeping the bike fresh and ready for a 'coast to coast' or a simple ride to the store. If you let your bike 'go' on purpose, it's only as a way for you to draw attention to yourself...by proclaiming that your an idiot. By maintaining your machine's appearance you get familiar with the nuts and bolts and pieces. I'm not talking about washing and waxing the plastic bodywork or the tank...I'm talking about a serious cleaning. Wiping down the engine, cleaning the brake dust off the wheels, removing all the dead bugs in the instruments, etc. While cleaning, take time to check the fluids, air pressure and chain/belt tension of your bike's pieces. It's all good habits that might save your skin someday". - Eric Todd Trosper

"I'm one of those guys who ends getting other people's neglected or abused '70s Hondas. Whole, wrecked, stripped, whatever, they all have one thing in common: They're dirty. No matter how bad, the first thing I do is wash the bike, even if the engine is seized and the wheels are rusty. This helps me to assess the condition of the bike and the completeness of it. Funny thing is though, that I keep all my bikes clean, regardless of whether they run. Keeping the running bikes clean allows me to see how they wear out, leak, or loosen up as I ride them. I don't like to be surprised on the road, and since my bikes are older and have been worked on before by unknown wrenches, I've usually gone through most every major part before I take the bike for a substantial ride. Knock on wood, but I've never had a breakdown on the road and don't plan to. Of course, others appreciate the tools and spares I bring along"! - Vince Strazzabosco

"As for cleaning, I think it comes down to personal pride. There are exceptions of course, but by and large a person's belongings can reflect a lot about them… how they take care of themselves and others." - John Ulrich

"A clean bike is a safer bike since... I dunno why! But, every one of my bikes has always ridden better after a good cleaning. Call it superstition maybe". - Paul Nendick

"The reason we spend a lot of time ensuring the bike is clean is so that if there is a problem such as a leak it is easily identified and is also easy to trace back to source. A dirty bike makes the whole fault finding a bit hit and miss, as well as a messy process. The other benefit of cleaning the bike regularly is you will see potential problems before they happen such as a frayed clutch cable, leaking brake lines, etc. It has been proven that a dry chain for example can sap up to 5% of you bikes power, or more if it has stiff links that create tight spots. Badly adjusted steering head bearings are a potential disaster, as the steering will adversely affect the way your bike handles. Worn shocks also affect the ride quality of your machine, or blown fork seals, dirty fork oil etc. Many bikes have never had their fork oil changed which is partly because the owner never really feels the difference in handling as they become accustomed to the way the bike slowly degrades around them. Another good tool is clear silicon sealant. We use this on connectors, spark plug caps etc to ensure the rain is kept away. " - Darren Thomas

OK, so there are some real reasons to keep your bike clean and then perhaps there is just the psychology of it all. Hey, we all bought these motorcycles because we want to enjoy them. If a clean bike is more enjoyable for you, then fantastic. That's just an added bonus. So, let's just go forward with the whole 'clean is better' theory for now. Let's assume that everyone reading has been healed, converted, saved… and now accepts his or her inner clean freak as their higher power. You with me on this? Sure you are.

Now, the first and most fundamental issue is whether or not you should be cleaning it with WATER. Cleaning usually begins with water, right? As silly as it may or may not sound, water is not always the best thing to clean your bike with. If I had a dollar for every time I saw some Harley clown in a stupid little leather vest blasting their bike with a pressure washer, I could easily afford one of those chrome-plated toilets they make in Milwaukee. The problem is that high-pressure washers tend to wash away any lube that is supposed to stay on the bike… like in your wheel bearings, fork seals and chain for example. Also, they work their way into your electrical system at various points. Not to mention that the pressure can actually cause damage to various bits and pieces if not directed properly. IF you MUST use some water on the bike to clean it’s OK to use a pressure washer… but stand back from the bike six feet or so and spray over the bike so water falls onto it like it was rained on. Keep water spray away from your switchgear, wiring, carburetors, bearings and exhaust outlets in particular. Then, wipe it down, ride it right away and get it good and dried off. Rich Albertson of WELD Racing really put it best,

"The best way to wash your bike is just exactly what you would like… a nice warm bath at home. How would you like it if someone rode you to the car wash and bathed your naked ass in front of everyone. Trust me, it's not that fun.... "

There were also some additional interesting tips from people about this stage of cleaning.

"Spraying water down into exhausts is a really bad thing seeing that water is sure to sit in the low places inside and rust away slowly; it'll cut way back on the life of your catalytic converter too. The end of my exhaust on my GS tilts up. I feel like putting a cork in it but I'm afraid I'll forget about it and start up"! - Victor Frasca

"My best cleaning tip is how to dry the bike. After a good wash, I blow dry it with my leaf blower. This reduces water spotting and dries any residual water in engine fins or other places. I was advised years ago to ride the bike after washing to dry it, and if I come home in a rain storm and want to quick clean the bike, this is a way to get the bike dry safely. Just be careful that the area around the bike is clean so that you do not blow dirt or stones up at the bike". - Suzi Greenway

Methods or Madness

Doing difficult jobs without the proper tools can be a miserable task. With cleaning, like any maintenance, the right tools and methods make all the difference not only in how difficult things are but also in the quality of the end result. So, I've put together some good basics to get you started, taking things one section at a time.

Engines:
If you are going to be cleaning your engine specifically, and especially if you have black painted parts that are turning gray, I highly recommend using S100 'Engine Brightner'. It is pretty much without equal for use on the engine and is OK to use on paint, plastics, and rubber. Makes all the black painted and coated parts look great, as well as the black plastic and rubber bits. The results are pretty undeniably excellent. It really can save a lot of time and still get better results than you would otherwise. Diluted strength Simple Green can also be good, just do not leave it to sit to long or it will damage your finish. Also, for the really tough stuff, like heavily stained cast aluminum engine cases, carburetor cleaner and a brass wire bristle brush can work well enough to make them look like they were bead-blasted clean.

Chrome & Alloys:
One serious time saving tip is to get a polishing pad that works on the end of a drill. Spinning at low speed with a non-grit polish will really generate the best results without burning or etching. If you have experience working with abrasives, use something like Semichrome or Fitz… but keep separate buffing elements for each type of polish so you can manage your results without damage. Regardless, just about anything is better than doing it by hand which is ridiculously time consuming and just one of the many reasons why I don’t have any chrome to polish. NeverDull can be extremely effective at cleaning heavily tarnished chrome and polished alloys. The wadding is impregnated with a chemical that is great at getting out things like the bluing on pipes. It can be mildly abrasive, so finish off with something like a Rolite aircraft aluminum polish, which is also used on big jobs like Airstream trailers.

Rubber:
Tires should be one of the first things that routinely are gone over on your bike. Visually inspect the tires for cracks, debris, tread wear and always check your air pressure. Don't use Armor All or similar tier treatments. They are a safety hazard and not good for the finish of your wheels, paint, chrome and the life of your tires. Clean your tires really well and they will certainly look good enough. For other modern rubber pieces, you can simply use WD-40 to keep things nice and supple. If they once were black and are turning gray, you can use "Black Again" to restore some of their color and luster.

Paintwork:
If you want to keep a good wax on your paint without any buildup, you can use a "cleaner wax". However, be careful with your application of these, as they do contain some abrasives. On a modern bike, this usually is not a big deal, but you want to watch using a buffing wheel with these type of products. They can cause some harm to older finishes. Using a cleaner wax as a starting point is a good way to go, getting things prepared for a heavier carnuba wax that will really create a nice glaze. Once you have a good wax application, don’t use products like 409 or other household cleaners or soaps to clean your paintwork. Use Pledge or another treatment of cleaner wax. Household soaps and cleaning chemicals will strip off the wax application and just make your job harder, requiring you to apply wax all over again.

Leather:
Lexol is especially good for when leather is wet and you need to condition it to keep it from being damaged. They make a cleaner, conditioner and Neatsfoot oil that are just about the best on the market. Also, Eagle One Carnuba Leather Cream does a great job. A good oil or conditioner can generally provide adequate wet weather protection, but Scotch Guard over the oils and conditioners works well too. Also, Saddle Soap gets most jobs done and is inexpensive and found very easily.

Finishing Touches

Once you've got everything good and clean, it's a good idea to then go through and check all your fasteners and wiring for general wear and tear or looseness. If you have a sportbike with full bodywork, consider stripping it naked periodically to check everything underneath in detail and also to clean the areas you seldom can reach to clean. After riding my bike through this past winter, I was happy that I had kept corrosion to a minimum, only to find a full cup of sand and gravel stuck to my engine and various components underneath my bodywork.

To say it was not only a mess, but also a real wear and tear issue, is a bit of an understatement. It had actually gotten inside my rear swingarm and had jammed my chain adjustment mechanisms badly. It was also all inside my airbox, and there was a hole starting in the filter. I am glad I checked. When things are apart for maintenance, this is the time to do a few things to help you keep an eye on things going forward. Phil Hitchcock offers up one thing to make future checks easier that I have recently done with good results.

"The best & cheapest thing to do after a bike is cleaned is to buy a $2 bottle of red nail polish & put spots of it on all the threads you do not want to come loose. Then it is just a simple matter of checking out the spot to see if it has cracked in which case time to tighten & note that it may be a problem area in future. I use this method on all my bikes." - Phill Hitchcock of Road & Race Engineering

The benefits of keeping a clean bike far outweigh any superficial reason not to. The excuse of, "I'd rather ride than rub", just doesn’t hold water… or WD-40 for that matter.

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Resource List

Washing Soaps
S100 Total Cycle - the best stuff out there. Biodegradable. Designed to tackle tough road film build-up, bug residue, as well as oil and grease. Rated #1 by enthusiasts the world over.
P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo - "Based on a unique and costly blend of ingredients from the cosmetic field. Works using a "betaine" action to insure that oils and wax on the finish are not stripped away in the washing process". Great stuff. It really does what it says.
Meguiar's Gold Class Premium Car Wash - formulation for frequent washing. Frequent use will not dull or strip wax.
ZYMÖL Auto Wash - designed to gently remove harmful ingredients. Contains a generous blend of banana and coconut essence oils. Gentle enough to use every time you wash your bike.
ZYMÖL Clear Auto Bathe - containins a combination of pure tallow, pure coconut essence oil conditioners and lemon extracts.
"RENEW" Custom Cycle Wash - from cycleclean.com

Cleaners & Degreasers :

S100 "Engine Brightener"
Simple Green - very effective and biodegradable, but do not let it sit on alloys or it will stain them. Dilute to adjust strength!
Amsoil Power Foam Carburetor and Engine Cleaner - meant for internal use, but does a good job if you have a really fuel stained engine.
Meguiars- Extra All Surface Cleaner
P21S Total Auto Wash - Total Wash, made for cleaning all surfaces safely and effectively. Biodegradable, citrus based cleaner.
PRO PRODUCTS - Non-Flammable Engine Degreaser
Zymöl Stirk Engine Wash - A citrus based multi-cleaner that releases trapped oils, dirt and cosmoline without damage to paint, plastic or rubber.
3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner - Safe to use on cured paint. Takes off road tar, adhesive, new car cosmoline, wax and other contaminates quickly and without a fuss. Pretty amazing stuff, but can be hard to find. Available through goodspeedmotoring.com and others.
Kerosene - still the thing for chains

Metal Polish & Cleaners :

Simichrome
Fitz
Never Dull
Mother's Metal Polish
Blue-B-Gone - good for getting the 'blue' off pipes
Rolite AP300 - aircraft aluminum polish is finer than Simichrome or similar products. It is often sold through aircraft restoration shops or Airstream trailer suppliers. Not cheap, but it removes the fine scratches other polishes can leave. (Tip from John Ulrich)
Magic Mix - one-step aluminum polish from Top Of The Line (see "Suppliers" below)

Waxes :

Mother's Carnuba Cleaner Wax - blend of natural waxes that wears off and is easily cleaned
Zymol Cleaner Wax - blend of natural waxes that wears off and is easily cleaned
Quick Shine - Eimann Fabrik's "Clear Pearl" Instant Detail Spray. Spray and wipe to detail paint, plastic, glass and chrome. Not a "quick shine" silicone spray, it contains Brazilian Carnauba Wax. Available through Top Of The Line.
NuFinish - for use on anything painted, as well as on low temp alloys and stainless steel.

Brushes & Other Tools :


Kiwi Brush - the same company that makes shoe polish makes several great brushes for cleaning bikes. A good one in particular is a small "toilet bowl" brush that fits in hard to reach places easier than most.
Flitz Polishing Ball - can cut your cleaning time in half! Super-shines aluminum and all metals, fiberglass, plastic, Plexiglas, and all paints safely. It is a 6 inch ball of felt that goes on any drill or air tool. It whirls up to 2000 RPMs, buffing out scuffs, oxidation, tarnish, baked-on brake dust, metal pitting and corrosion. Use properly and with caution! Machine-wash & reuse up to 30 times.
Industrial Quality Sponge - like the kind that can be found through restaurant and bar supply stores, as well as at some 'Linens & Things' stores. Heavy duty, expensive, but worth it.
HYPERLINK http://www.cleancycle.com CleanCycle.com - supplies some really great brushes (as well as other products). Great wheel, long reach and detail brushes. The types of which are essential for making life easy.
Machinerycleanery.com - "Small Bristle Brushes for Serious Work" - perfect for a ton of tasks. One design - Three types of Bristles - Three different Brushes
Gun Cleaning Brushes - Sporting goods and gun shops have cylindrical brushes for gun bores. They come in various sizes and, with brake or carb cleaner. (Tip from Charlie Clancy)
Microfiber Gloves & Towels - generally better than a chamois, and less likely to scratch.

Terry Cloth Gloves - heavy weight variety.
Latex Gloves - make cleaning with chemicals safer and keeps you cleaner.

Leather Cleaners & Conditioners :

Lexol - especially good for when leather is wet and you need to condition it to keep it from being damaged. They have several products, including oils that are just the best offered.
Eagle One Carnuba Leather Cream
Saddle Soap - good ole' saddle soap gets most thing done. Cheap and easy.

Lubricant & Water Dispersal Chemicals "

Amsoil Silicone Lubricant Spray - good for electrics
TriFlo - amazing stuff. Expensive, but great for dissolving corrosion and preventing it. Good on switches and such. Contains Teflon.
Amsoil MPHD Heavy Duty Metal Protector
WD-40 - of course. You know why.

Specialty Equipment Suppliers :

Detail King - detailking.com - they have an online "mall" with all sorts of great products, some of which are motorcycle specific.
Top Of The Line - topoftheline.com - tons of supplies for motorcycle specific needs.
RightLook.com
CleaningClothsDirect.com
WinnersCircleDetailingProducts.com